Hello plant friends,
​The first time I smelled Orris, I was so in love with it that I wanted to reformulate all my fragrances to include it. It’s such a beautiful scent, blending effortlessly with so many others—a warm, comforting embrace, like a soft blanket. It’s soothing and refined, a fragrance I had longed to work with for years. Yet, its extraordinary price held me back. I waited until I felt I had earned the privilege, telling myself, “Now I’m ready to work with such exquisite materials!” Even now, I treat it with deep respect and awe.
At Villa Lena in Toscane in Italy, I really saw irises truly for the first time and became aware of their role in the Italian tradition of perfumery. Historically, they’ve been used in traditional cosmetics and face creams, embodying a distinctly Italian spirit to me. When I first smelled pure Orris, it felt familiar, reminding me of my mother's lipsticks, a memory of my youth, yet I had never experienced it in such a raw and concentrated form. In cosmetics, the amounts are often so small that the scent is barely noticeable.
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I strive to create fragrances where the iris is truly present, where you can sense its essence. Sometimes, this is a challenge, as iris is a base note that reveals itself slowly and binds the other materials together. But in that final moment, there’s a whisper of iris that keeps you coming back, wanting to breathe it in again and again.
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With love,
Merle
The hidden treasure of Iris
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While the tall stems and majestic flowers of an Iris catch the eye, the true treasure is hidden underground in its rhizomes. These roots undergo a slow, careful transformation over up to six years (!!) to develop a unique and magical scent—powdery, green, and lightly woody. Its creation is a true testament to patience and craftsmanship which we love to share with you today.
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This scent material, known as orris, has been cherished for centuries. It was once a favorite in the courts of 18th century France, and it remains one of the most luxurious and valuable ingredients in perfumery today. Originally linked to Italy, the iris is now grown in fields across France, Morocco, and China. The process of cultivating orris is long and meticulous, but the result is a fragrance that isn’t like any other.
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Discover the understated beauty of iris, where years of care and nature’s quiet work create a scent like no other ♡
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In your box this month:
A sample of orris butter of the Iris Pallida.
"I have dipped
My selves
In every pond
In search of irises
Their roots as deep
As my love."
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- Sanjoin no Nyokurodo Sakon, 13th century
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A watercolour illustration from a 16th-century edition of the Materia Medica by Pedanius Dioscorides.
The origin of Iris
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Known as Sweet Iris or Dalmatian Iris, this remarkable plant has a rich history and a special role in perfumery. Two species are primarily used in the fragrance world: Iris pallida and Iris germanica. At the heart of Lingua Planta lies Iris pallida, a species that thrives in light, rocky soil. Originally native to central Europe, the plant is now cultivated in the regions of Italy, France, Morocco, and China. Though its flowers are visually striking—soft blue to mauve with golden accents—they play no role in creating fragrance. The flowers have a sweet aroma which could remind you of orange blossom, but it is the roots that, with time, yield the precious orris.
The journey of iris to orris butter
The true treasure of Iris pallida lies beneath the surface: its rhizomes. Often mistaken for roots, these underground stems seem nothing special when freshly harvested, offering little to no scent. Yet, with time, drying, and aging, they undergo a remarkable transformation, developing their signature fragrance—a soft, violet-like aroma.
The dried, aged iris rhizomes contain concentrated levels of irones, the compound responsible for orris’s unique scent. Once aged to perfection, the rhizomes are ground into a fine powder and distilled through hydrodistillation. The resulting essential oil solidifies at room temperature into a creamy wax known as orris butter, with shades ranging from ivory to pale yellow-beige.
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Orris rhizome from ayalamoriel.com
The challenges of orris butter
Despite its fragrance, orris butter has some disadvantages to it. It contains a high concentration of fatty acids, which are mostly insoluble in alcohol and can cause a fleecy substance in perfumes. Additionally, improper storage (exposure to heat, light, or moisture) can result in a sour smell. To maintain its quality, orris butter must be stored in cool, dry conditions, away from light.
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Producing orris butter is no easy task. The distillation process is labor-intensive, requiring large quantities of pulverized rhizomes to yield even a small amount of essential oil. Since natural orris is therefore extremely costly, it is used in minute quantities in high-end perfumery.
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Etymology
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The name "iris" comes from the Greek word for rainbow, a fitting name to the wide spectrum of colors found in the 2000 varieties of iris. The flower was named after Iris, which was the messenger goddess of the gods in Greek mythology, whose wings were said to resemble the delicate petals of the flower. She was seen as the personification of the rainbow, a bridge between earth and sky.
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Guy Head's 18th century painting: 'Iris carrying the Water of the River Styx to Olympus for the Gods to Swear By'.
She was also the goddess of perfume. She prepared Hera’s baths and attended to her beauty rituals. It’s no wonder that the goddess of messages between earth and heavens was also linked to fragrance. In ancient times, messages were carried by the smoke of burning offerings, and the Latin word for perfume, perfumum ("by smoke"), reflects this ancient practice. Just as Iris mediated between realms, perfume continues to act as a bridge, carrying emotions and prayers through its scent.​
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Antonio Palomino's 17th century painting 'Allegory of Air'.
Through the centuries
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Orris has been cherished since ancient Egypt for its healing properties. In medieval times, it was used to flavor liqueurs, and by the 18th century, it gained global fame for its scent, used in fragrances and cosmetics. In 1835, a french farmer named Coifer introduced the iris to France. He obtained seeds in Verona, which he smuggled home in the cane of his umbrella in order to outwit customs. He kept the cultivation a secret until his death, after which production spread.
The first farmer to cultivate Iris pallida in Italy was Adriano Piazzesi. Beginning in 1842 near Greve in Chianti - an area famous for its vineyards and olive groves - he devoted over 20 years to irises. He left a lasting legacy in the industry and soon many more followed in the region.
In the 19th century, orris entered into products such as milks, toothpaste, alcohols and fancy tobacco and from the early 20th centuries, housewives perfumed their wardrobes with sachets of orris powder.
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Orris in perfumery
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Orris is often associated with the word "powdery," but its scent is much more if you ask me. It blends ethereal qualities with dry, rough, and airy undertones. Orris evokes the soft floral fragrance of violet, enriched by woody, green, buttery, and waxy nuances. Depending on the form, it can also reveal hints of raspberry, cocoa or even leather.
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While orris is often linked to soft, vintage femininity and the charm of old-fashioned cosmetics, it also plays a key role in masculine fragrances, as it blends beautifully with woody notes. Over the past two decades, orris has embodied luxury and exclusivity, appearing in high-end perfumes either as a centerpiece or harmonized within leather or oriental compositions.
The aroma of the orris butter you've received:
Delicate, sweet, warm, powdery-floral aroma reminiscent of violet flowers with mellow woody undertones. I use this orris butter in Sacred Sun, Understory and the new unreleased scent Nightflowers.
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Orris on your skin
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While orris may not fully reveal its magic on fragrance blotters, it truly comes to life when applied to your skin. Some scent materials, like orris, need the warmth of the body to fully express their depth and complexity, allowing their subtle, powdery fragrance to unfold and settle beautifully. I therefore encourage you to gently rub a tiny amount of orris from the package onto your skin, allowing the fragrance to interact with your unique skin and body’s warmth.​​​
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Healing properties
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Beyond its beautiful scent, iris offers a range of therapeutic benefits. When inhaled through evaporation, it stimulates the respiratory system, helping to ease coughing and conditions like bronchitis, including chronic and asthmatic forms. Iris is also known to enhance mental clarity, boosting creativity, concentration, and intuition. On a more physical level, it nourishes and purifies the skin, offering both care and healing with its gentle touch.
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The Virgin Mary & Art Nouveau
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In ancient Western art, irises often symbolized the purity of the Virgin Mary, appearing alongside or replacing the traditional white lily. A beautiful example is The Virgin and Child with the Iris, of Albrecht Dürer (circa 1500). In this painting, the beautiful Virgin Mary, dressed in a flowing red gown, breastfeeds Jesus in a garden. Behind her, two tall, blue irises rise against the sky, near a cloud where God watches over them.
Albrecht​ Dürer's 'The Virgin and Child with the Iris' from 1508.
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The iris also flourished in the Art Nouveau movement, where its distinctive shape was highly admired. Its gracefully curving blooms and vibrant color palette made it a favorite subject, allowing for a wide range of artistic interpretations often with fairy-like woman next to them.​
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The Iris in Asia
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In Asia, irises are often symbols of rebirth. In China, they are a clear sign of spring, often included in bouquets to represent the season’s arrival. In Japan, however, the meanings of irises are more varied. They symbolize not only spring and fertility but also nostalgia and the distant past. The shape of the leaves, reminiscent of ‘katana sword blades’, connects them to the samurai tradition.
Irises and springtime are frequently celebrated in Japanese haikus. The French poet Paul Claudel also wrote several poems about them, some of which were intended to be written on fans:
These iris blossoms,
Talking about departure,
The joy of travel…
Claudel’s poems echo the myth of Iris as the messenger goddess, guiding souls on their journey to the afterlife. Just as the goddess accompanied travelers between realms, the iris flower continues to symbolize this passage, acting as a guide for souls on their way.
Orris, do you recall our first encounter
Resplendent in a Tuscan village
Revealing your hidden majesty
Imperial azure, majestic bloom
Shielding your hidden treasure
Richly infused with fragrance
Over time, its secrets distilled
Offering up its precious essence
Three years in the making.
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- ‘A promise’ by Delphine de Swardt
Reach out or say hi
Thank you so much for accompanying me on this fascinating journey through the realm of perfuming materials, where we explore not only the sensory beauty of scents but also the deeper intelligence of plants and their natural essences. It’s been a wonderful adventure, navigating the intricacies of fragrance and nature’s wisdom. I’d love to hear your thoughts and insights on this experience!
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or DM @linguaplanta